It's been two weeks of hot, sweet, and smelly chaos. Since landing in Cairo, I've learned how to say 'I speak a little Arabic' and to ignore the constant street calls. Similar to many large cities trash is everywhere, street vendors try selling you anything under the sun, and one hears 'welcome IN egypt' and 'how are you?' every block.
We are living in a little haven in the south of Cairo, a ghetto area. The evangelical church and its adjacent compound with classrooms, sparce hostel-like accomodations, and dirty football field is our safe place. Each evening, after a morning of Arabic classes half and hour away, and an afternoon filled with lectures and field trips, I return here for kind smiles and help learning Arabic phrases. My new favorite is 'harr moto'--dead hot. In reference to the sun, or the barbeque oven that cooks our chicken for supper.
Going to the pyramids, the Citadel (old fortress), Old Cairo (the old churches and synagogues) have been among our field trips thus far, and while incredible sights, the most exciting part for me are the times wandering the streets.
Dirt catches in my eyes; I hear the tabla beat of music from a taxi. A donkey cart rolls by, and then a woman in full hijab herding goats. Attempts at buying recognizable food on the streets with broken Arabic. Stepping over a litter of kittens. I try not to outwalk the rest of my group, and stay with a man. For an independent woman like myself, the gender rules are a challenge to get used to.
We've been reading and hearing a lot about the layers of Cairo. Rich and poor living ontop of each other; in Cairo the population is around 20 million. I was trying to think up an analogy for Cairo the other day, and a Club sandwhich came to mind. not sure why. The crisp, preppy dress of the shabeb (the young men), the bright head scarves and oober-tight long-sleeved shirts (an ironic attempt at being 'conservatively dressed'), beggars and street sellers offering tissues on the Metro train, Asian tourists, and women carrying heavy loads on their heads. And this all within just one Cairine block.
Two week down, and time already speeding by. I'll keep walking, trying out my Arabic, and eating fried felfales every breakfast. Busy, but seeping in the rhythm of Egyptian life.
P.S. ALso....I forgot my camera cord, and will attempt to load photos another time. In the meantime, check our the Goshen College SST website, Egypt link, for group photos thus far. http://egypt.b.goshen.edu/
