masalaam misr/Goodbye Egypt

Life tends to become a time warp when you travel to another country for three months. As soon as you are getting adjusted to a new environment, you find yourself packing the bags to go home, wondering where all the time in between ran off to.

And so I survived Egypt--all the moments of exhaustion, incomprehension of language, trash-filled streets and heaps of people. But besides the harder aspects of life here, the positives are what I will return with the most.

Final thoughts:

• I loved Beni Suef, a village and city combined. The endless hospitality of Egyptians who will feed you until you are stuffed beyond memory of ever being hungry in the first place, or will invite you to live with them forever and you know they aren't joking.

• I learned about the patience in Egyptians' blood that gives them the strength to survive a frustrating government and lack of sufficient public services. Watching the hours pass without 'doing anything' in school offices or homes isn't as big a deal anymore for me, since tea is always provided and people want to visit.

• I discovered that I love to teach, and teaching English as a second language is a great way to mix with people of other cultures. Doing charades to explain new words and being able to correct misconceptions about Americans is fun.  Potential future job?...we'll see.

• I exchanged my last Egyptian guineas today, and now cannot buy anymore pomegranates, sweet sesame candies and pasteries, nor felafel sandwiches. I have stuffed my suitcase with all that I can!

• My last week in Beni Suef, I was practically proposed to by one of our fellow English teacher-friends. I think there may be different meanings of the words 'I love you' in Arabic, but regardless it was a big pronouncement. At this point, I was already completely exhausted, and tried to handle the situation in the least awkward manner possible. Later, I thought of the perfect response: I signed a contract with Goshen College that said I wouldn't marry anyone on SST. One of the minor stipulations... 

The SST group is about to have our Last Supper, and all of us are ancy to get on the plane. Time for the next adventure, and waiting to see how this rich time incorporates into the rest of my trajectory. See you soon, inshallah.

p.s. upon return I will either post some photos here, or give a link to another photo site. and I will give an Egyptian greeting (4 kisses) to anyone who won't refuse me :)

So a Nun, a Priest, and I were eating guavas...

Sounds like the start of a joke, and sometimes I wonder if I am in one large cosmic pun, but so goes the past three weeks of my life. I arrived in the 'small city' (roughly 1 mill?) of Beni Suef three weeks ago, and already only have two more left. My main place of residence has been a girl's orphanage, right next to a boy's, both of which are run by the Coptic church. Mennonite Central Committe (MCC) has been working in Egypt for about 20-30 years, and helped make this connection with Goshen College.

My first week was one of the most overwhelming and taxing of my life, filled to the brim with people, newness, and expectations I didn't understand. My friend Abe and I were assigned to teach English in a private Coptic-run language school, supposedly the best school in Beni Suef. As it turns out, we were sort of asked to teach all ages from primary, prep, to secondary, and be somewhat miracle workers in making the students fluent in the mere four weeks we may actually have to teach. Alas, we try our best, visiting different classes each period, interjecting correct pronounciation/teaching the entire lesson when asked. The rest of the time we spend drinking endless cups of tea in offices, trying to hide our hysterical laughter which bubbles up from the mass confusion of life in the schools here and is perhaps a symptom of our stress...

Part two of my assignment: teaching English 2-3 times a week for adults in an evening course. This, I've found, is something I DO enjoy, thanks be to God. I realize I love teaching, especially when the students aren't constantly yelling and asking you what your name is. Perhaps I'll pursue this in the future.

New location: As of two days ago, I was whisked off to the Priest's house, Father Yussef, for a week-long stay. Ever since the police followed us back from a field trip we took to the local pyramid, we've been hounded. Mainly, they want an excuse to meddle with the orphanage and the Church here in general. I'm sad to leave the 25 girls and wonderful Sister Nardeen at the orphanage, who want me to stay with them forever, but it is somewhat amusing to live with a Priest. Only downside: I'm picked up from school at 2pm and thereafter am conatined within their apartment till the next morning. When at the orphanage, Abe and I were able to escape for walks along the Nile. It's a bit scary to climb a few flights of stairs these days, and feel out of breath!!

Highlights:
 Since arriving here in Beni Suef, I feel that I've gotten a real taste of Egyptian culture--nothing like anything I experienced in Cairo. Here I am offered food constantly, as well as gallibayas (the egyptian dress) to change into for naps, and have learnt more Arabic in three weeks than in 2 months previously. I'm accustomed to eating fresh guavas each day, and have attended multiple Coptic services. Tomorrow, I go to a wedding and the party afterwards.

Funny Notes:
  Well, too many to mention, but here's a few: Egyptians wear their pajamas whenever in the home. So, Father Yussef, who I'm used to only seeing wearing black robe and hat, changes into his light-blue pajamas. I'm still amused by this.

Also, Egyptians want their guests to be visibly happy at ALL times. If you are alone too long, they get worried. If you happen to be reserved and not talk much (like my friend Abe) they are also very concerned. I had to explain to my dear Sister Nardeen (the mama and nun at the girl's orphange, who is a wise sage and hilarious) that Abe actually is quite happy, truly....

Next week school's off on account of a Muslim holiday. We might be headed to an oasis in the desert, but as with all things, we don't really know what's up until it's happening. After that, one more week here and I return to Cairo. So quick!

With confusion, and laughs as usual,
Andrea

Visit Behind the Veil

My adventurous spirit provides me with surprising and wonderful experiences, but also gets me in trouble at times. While I feel that I have a decent internal sense of people I meet--what their character is like and if they are trustworthy--I've had to face the fact that just relying on my gut instinct isn't enough proof to other people. Let me start from the beginning of my story to make it clearer.

Last week I had the experience of sitting in the women's car on the Metro train towards Helwan, looking over my Arabic homework. This, I've found, is a likely way to start conversation. Sure enough, a woman in a full hijab with a toddler sleeping in her arms started helping me with my worksheet. We started attempting to chat, but mostly just laughed. When the train came to its last stop, we both exited, but she insisted on buying me juice. Holding my hand with her gloved hand, she protectively guided me to the nearest juice stand, and bought me sugar cane juice. I loved seeing her glass and straw disappear behind her black veil, returning promptly again empty.

She communicated her strong desire to invite me to her house for lunch, and I sorta understood that we might meet in two days or so. Phone numbers exchanged, we parted ways. All I knew were her warm eyes and her name, Kisma.

-------------------------
About four days later, I was thinking of her, and decided to give her a call. I agreed to come to the Metro at 4:30 pm, and met her there. She obviously saw me before I recognized her...which is a good thing. We climbed onto a crammed microbus, and she refused to let me pay anything. Doding pot-holes, donkeys, and people at break-neck speed, the busy carried us out of the mess of Helwan into what looked like the beginning of desert. Large factories, a single towering mosque, and some high-rise apartments emerged from the dirt. My heart pounded with nervous excitement.

I noticed the stillness as soon as we stepped off the bus. No horns honking; no animal noises. Up three flights of stairs, and we entered Kisma's apartment. I felt like one who is priviledged to hear a secret, seeing this hidden world of Muslim women in Egypt. Her sister-in-law met me with a smile and Kisma went off to change out of her hijab. When she returned I had a moment of confusion; I thought Kisma was someone else, and said "hello, I'm Andrea!" Only two minutes later did I realize that the woman wearing the hot pink spandex sports-suit was in fact my friend. I knew it was going to be an interesting evening...

Kisma's two-year old boy, Noor, was an immediate way to connect, since I can play with kids without advanced language skills. I tickled him and played hide and seek while Kisma prepared food. The T.V. stayed on continously, with the sister-in-law glued to the screen most of the evening. When it was time to eat, a low table was brought in front of the T.V. Sitting, I ate lots of rice, chicken, gooey green mullihayya soup, orzo soup, and fresh guava and banana juice. "Eat more, eat more!!" Kisma pleaded. Not wanting to be rude, I tried my best, recognizing this cross-cultural trend of hospitality.

Photos of her wedding were shown to me--wonderfully cheesy ones with photoshopped stars and glitter in the background. I noticed she was dressed modestly in sparkly white, with brilliantly colored blue eyeshadow. I showed her the one family picture I had brought with me. Next, she proceeded to gift me with perfume (which I likely won't use), a fluffly, frilly little jewelry box (which I'll keep for the hilarity-factor) and, what do you know...her infamous blue sparkle eye-shadow. "I can't wear it anymore," she told me. "Except in the house. You should have it!" I tried my best to refuse, but with generosity like that, one simply cannot.

Fast-forward two hours or so, and I'm still stuck on her couch watching lousy American 'horror' films, like "The Fog," and "Wolf Creek Canyon." By this point I was exhausted and sense that I should leave. I tried to suggest leaving, but she seemed offended because apparently it was too early yet. She wanted my company.

Some more time passes, and I sensed it was late. My phone was in my bag. This time I make my need more adamantly, and she agreed to take me to the microbus. Donning all her black again, we waited for the bus, which eventually comes. I was confused as to whether she is coming with me or not, but turns out she paid my fair and just tells the driver where to take me. I called one of my male SSTer friends, and he agreed to walk me back from the Metro stop again.

Then, I got a call from one of my Egyptian male friends from the church we stay at. He was coming to pick me up. I started  to realize there might be trouble....
------------------------------
When I got safely back to the church, I found seven Egyptian young men and two of my SST women waiting for me. Trouble. The next day I had a talk with Adhil, our cook and surrogate 'protective older brother,' who told me off for going off on my own. "She was not your friend, you didn't know where you were going, you stayed out too late, you could have been harmed!!!!"

My tail between my legs, I admitted I made a mistake. I didn't think through all the consequences, and I apologized profusely. I promised Adhil I wouldn't do it again. Everyone's care and worry humbled me.

And yet. Brashness and recklessness aside, I'm secretly glad for the experience. My judgeerience. My judge of character did turn out to be right, but perhaps that is just luck. I was gifted with unusual hospitality and a rare chance to see behind the veil. It gives me a new way of looking at the world here, and fills me with hope. God continues to surprise me, love on my when I least expect it.

Lights out in McDonalds

Exiting one of the greatest temples of history--the Luxor temple, which over the years has served many gods, religions (including a church and currently a mosque which was built in the middle of it) and other purposes--the 19 of us Americans did the most blatantly American thing possible.

It wasn't my choice, but once I saw where we were headed, I set aside my angst/disgust/embarrassment, and was determined to enjoy ourselves. McDonald's was the dinner place picked out by our leaders, but once we got there the entire city block was blacked-out. Not sure of what to do, we crammed into the upstairs seating area and waited in the dark till we were rescued by the light.

Laughing at the irony of being in a McDonalds, in Egypt, in the dark, on SST, we were overjoyed when lights came up and we could order our food. Disclaimer: I've never in my life ordered an entire MEAL at McDonalds. But, perhaps due to the wild influence of Egypt, or the aire of escapism that was surging through all of us as we realized how much we did in fact miss the food in America, I ordered the full McRoyale meal deal along with my table.

Just to really gorge out, the four at my table made a pact to get  McFlurries, which I joined in with, fully aware I would regret all of this later.

And yet.
It's only in travelling for more than a month outside of your homeland that you realize what you miss. What luxuries you float in each day of living in the U.S.

The contradiction of where I come from being transported via a burger and fries to a culture so different than the U.S. was sharp in my face. Walking back to the hotel--albeit one with a broken toilet and no soap--I felt a mixture of guilt and guilty-pleasure.

In many ways, I'm more similar to the stone-faced queens and kings I've seen in the temples than the woman selling tissues amidst the refuse of the streets.

Quick Overview: Luxor/Aswan

Recap of where I've been recently:

- a 12 hour sleeper-car train ride south to Aswan and Luxor, near the bottom of Egypt
- the huge Aswan dam, which made the largest man-made lake, stopped the Nile from flooding, kicked
  native Nubians off their land, and creates a lot of electricity. pros and cons.
- the valley of the Kings (during the New Kingdom, the capital was moved to the south-Thebes-and they  
  discovered that the natural geography looked like pyramids. so they stopped building up and began digging
  into these hills for their tombs). That was a VERY hot day. no shade. chugged bottle water, and couldn't
  see my sweat.
- an unfinished obelisk--those tall pencil-like columns that were inscribed and carved out of one solid piece of granite. This one had a crack in it at one end and now remains forever stuck in rock-purgatory.
- Hatshipsut's temple. The one that is surrounded on three sides by the side of a large cliff. She's impressive mainly because she claimed the pharonic throne and kept it for a while.
- spice shopping in the markets of Aswaun, and a ride on a falooka--the one-sailed boats that carry tourists and have guides that sing for you.

- bus to Luxor, where we saw more temples, most impressively the Luxor Temple at night. The Avenue of the Sphinx was once a long road lined with sphinxes that connected the Karnak temple at one end of the city with the Luxor temple. They are trying to resurrect it.

Currently:
- a few arabic classes squeezed in the middle of our travels. Must admit I'm getting a bit weary of them, if only because I feel like a terrible student. We don't really have that much time or a good place to study with dedication. And, when faced with Arabic, it is just plain overwhelming and intimidating at times. I'll keep trudging through though...

Next stop:
- leave Tues-Thursday for the Sinai penisula. We will hike Mt. Sinai, see St. Catherine's monastery, and get a dip (and perhaps snorkel?) in the Red Sea. woo-hoo!

Haga Helwa, Haga Wahesh (The Good and the Bad)

Haga helwa wa haga wahesh. Good things and bad things. That's the one phrase I know how to say that somewhat describes to Egyptians both Amreeka (the U.S.) and my experience in Egypt. My first response to "how do you like Egypt?" is of course bahibla!(love it!), but longer conversing, I admit to some of the hard things. Certain parts of the culture I can only vent about to fellow Americans who understand where I'm coming from.

The helwa:

- Ah the food! Recklessly ignoring the warnings about eating salad in foreign countries, I snarf down the cucumbers and tomatoes whenever they are around. Hibiscus tea, felfales, Egyptian-types savory pancakes, moussaka, and piles of goey sweets whose names I immediately forget upon tasting. Just too swept away in love of the food. For those who know me well, you know of my love of food, and cooking in general. It's a delight each morning on the way to our Metro stop to weave through streets overloaded with the hubub of people, donkeys, microbuses, cats, and trash only to spot whole blocks filled with little fruit stands. The fooul carts appear in the morning, serving fooul (fava beans) mashed with lemon juice and some cilantro and cucumber salad on the side, served with bread. Bread--a flat, sourdough-ish, pita-type--is a staple at every meal, and I love to see a young man on his bicycle with a wooden rack balanced on his head, piled high with loaves upon loaves of this aaish.

- I've happened upon a trick to initiate conversation with strangers. While meeting Christians is easy to do each evening after returning to our church hostel/compound, meeting Muslims is more challenging than I thought it would be. So I sit on the Metro for at least 40 minutes each direction to go to class, and when I'm up to studying, I'll put out my handy arabic homework and attempt review. Most often, as I fight off the clenching heat and drips of sweat that form whenever the train stops for a moment, and try to be appropriately polite in keeping knees and bag to myself, I am the most interesting thing for strangers to watch. However, on a number of settings, my baby-level arabic is enough for some brave women to attempt to speak to me. One said she used to teach Arabic to foreigners and ardemently offered her phone number, inviting me to visit her in her home. Once an old woman (who may have been slightly off her rocker) kept trying to offer me one of her fooul sandwhiches. I honestly couldn't understand anything she was telling me, and the younger women around me could see this, and laughed along with me in my confusion. Laughter is my go-to for dealing with situations where all I can say is mish-Arfa. "I don't know!"

- there's more helwa than I can mention here--the history of Egypt, the grandeur of the Nile, the joking and relaxed way of most Egyptians. The hidden treasures I find when exploring downtown Cairo. I keep finding more.

Haga Wahesh:

- pollution to the nth degree, not being able to walk/run in public (I scared myself the other day when I realized I was out of breath slightly after just four flights of stairs...unusual for my active self).

- especially as a single woman, constant constant attention, although I've begun to venture out by myself and find that I have less harrassment this way than with a group from my SST. Perhaps I walk with more purpose and sternness, which is a good thing.

-how long it takes to get places in this huge city, and how slow change takes places in the country, as far as reforming anything or changing the public's mind. The current president, Mubarak, is best known for keeping a cap on a country about to explode--from the unhappy masses who deal with poverty and high levels of unemployment, to the religious disputes and persecutions, among other things.

Not wanting to leave on a pessimistic note, I can honestly say I'm grateful to be here. What an ironic position of priviledge I have, to be able to choose to come to this country and live among the poor. Jesus is the light of the world, and I try to remind myself each day to look for that light amidst the dust that fogs my vision. Like I've said before, it's beautiful chaos.

Slow computers, and a trip to Anafora ie Eden



Clayton in a perfumery shop. I got suckered into buying some lotus perfume, but I think it was worth it.

I've been attempting to scour for internet cafes nearby, and finally found one that doesn't seem too shady. After 45 minutes of trying to upload photos, all I get is three. Oh well, it's something. So here's a taste.



The Emam House, a hostle and church, is surrounded by mosques. Calls to pray broadcast loudly and in varying timbres and volumes five times a day.





<>

Being the complete movie start/tourist at the Great Pyramids. Amazing as they were, being in the desert for a number of hours is not an activity I'd like to repeat often...

ANAFORA
Two days ago, we squished into a small bus for a two-hour ride south of Cairo to Anafora. Started by Bishop Thomas, a wiry, beady-eyed Copt with a crazy imagination and will-power to beat, this monastery and retreat center is an oasis. Mud-brick buildings all white-washed inside; curved roofs with colored stained-glass hole-width windows; a soothing pool and palm trees in the center of the compound. It serves as an ecumenical retreat/conference center, and we were lucky enough to spend one night there.

My friend Elizabeth commented that I was sighing and oohing all the time--especially at the food and trees with food on them (such as date-laden palms, avocado trees, fresh herbs). Sleeping on a squishy pillow and in my own bedroom with a mosquito net was just icing on the cake.

One person will be doing their service here, which seems incredibly too cushy, but part of me is jealous. The history of the Coptic church, and their persistance to survive in the face of constant (to this day) discrimination and persecution is inspiring. Joining the 6 am mass (yep, too early), I let the chanting of the nuns and cantor-singing of the monks, wash over me and fill me with the Holy Spirit; with foreign sounds and a sense of belonging to an ancient history and broad family of faith.

Returting to the buzz and smog of Cairo, I feel 'at home' in a way. A true sign I'm a city girl, albeit a lover of places of rest and quiet.